SPEZIFIKATIONEN
29 mm x 57 mm 925 sterling silver case
29mm x 29mm dial body
9 mm case thickness
Original Krone
Swiss manual winding movement
ANALYSE
Between the late 1920s and early 1930s, many Swiss watchmakers began developing patents for pocket, travel, or handbag watches.
These watches featured cases composed of one or two shells that protected the dial from impacts and allowed it to be lifted from the case for easy reading of the time. These were years of intense experimentation, with many major Swiss manufacturers-such as Movado, Juvenia, Zenith, Longines, Lipmann, Eterna, Tissot, and other
—competing to find highly innovative technical and aesthetic solutions in this field of watchmaking.
Cyma and Tavannes also competed and played a leading role. On February 15, 1929, they registered the name “Captive” with the registration number 69301.
This name identified a watch with a case that opened a double window above the dial by pressing two special buttons on the sides of the case. It was an immediate commercial success when exhibited at the 1930 Barcelona Exposition. Schwob & Frères & Cie S.A., owner of the two historic brands Cyma and Tavannes, took it a step further between 1932 and 1934, developing that original patent to create a watch they still called “La Captive,” which could be securely worn on a belt during sports activities. With patent no. 662027 filed in France and Belgium, both Cyma and Tavannes began producing these special watches. A single push-button located under the clasp raised the dial 90 degrees from the case. It was a huge success, especially among certain categories of athletes, such as golfers and tennis players, who could devote themselves to amateur or competitive activities, freeing up their pockets and wrists. Naturally, the distribution channels for this product were major jewelers like Cartier and Hermès in France, as well as major multi-sector chains like Dunhill, Asprey, and Swaine & Adeney in England.
Swaine and Adeney began their history as two independent companies marketing luxury goods to London’s upper class in the mid-18th century. The two companies merged in 1848, forming Swaine & Adeney Ltd. The company produced, imported, and distributed the highest-quality men’s clothing and accessories, and for this reason, it was immediately recognized as a global reference point for nobles, heads of state, athletes, and film, entertainment, and theater stars from the 19th century to the present day. Fine travel trunks, briefcases, and, above all, hats, gloves, and umbrellas were its flagship and most prized items. Hats were produced in-house by the merged company of master craftsman Herbert Johnson; Meanwhile, silk-covered umbrellas were produced by Thomas Briggs, who joined Swaine & Adeney in 1943. In short, this group of master craftsmen set the standards of elegance, starting in London and expanding globally.
This men’s accessory fits perfectly into this context: a splendid belt watch for the wealthy and aristocratic English sportsmen of the 1930s.
The upper case is in the typical and beautiful Art Deco style, with a decorative motif composed of vertical lines interrupted in the center of each section by a rhomboid geometric composition. On the back is the Swaine & Adeney signature, and just below it are the halimarks characteristic of 925 silver found on English products, which in this case refers to the London control and the date 1932 (see the “r”).
The dial has a light background and no signature, making this object even more mysterious and fascinating. Its elegance lies in the beautiful Arabic numerals called “Paris” that fill the entire surface.
From this elegant dial emerge the hour and minute hands, which are a deep blue thanks to the tempering technique.
The watch is powered by a Swiss-made hand-wound caliber with 16 jewels, each set and secured with a double screw, a testament to its superior mechanical quality.
