Extremely rare Cartier “Sferic” cylindrical case with integrated bracelet in solid 18Kt yellow gold,
manual-wound movement JLC 426/2, from 1944.
CARACTÉRISTIQUES TECHNIQUES
Cylindrical case in solid 18Kt yellow gold
Case measures 13.5mm
Bracelet intégré en or jaune massif 18Kt
Bracelet measures 18.5mm in circumference
Original bayonet clasp
Cristal en plastique original
Manual-wound movement JLC 426/2
ANALYSE
Cartier and Jaeger enjoyed an exclusive collaboration for many years, creating enduring watchmaking icons such as the “Pantera”, the “Tonneau”, and the “Santos.” Between the 1930s and 1940s, inspired by the Art Nouveau movement, Cartier and Jaeger revisited the full Art Deco style, recodifying it by streamlining its lines and planes and reinterpreting it in a completely new and original way. This initially occurred in jewelry, but soon extended to the production of high-quality jewelry watches.
It was in this context that Jaeger-LeCoultre presented this unexpected, surprising jewelry watch at the 1944 Baselworld, featuring the distinctive spherical-globular shape of its integrated bracelet. This object is a true work of art, involving the highest level of craftsmanship imaginable for the time.
The dial is typical of Cartier watches mounted on circular cases between the mid-1930s and the first half of the 1940s. It is therefore a well-tested and instantly recognizable concept. Against a white background, the layout is essential, clean, and therefore very elegant. The graphics are pad-printed and consist of narrow baton indexes to mark the hours. The indexes at the quarters are thicker, almost as if they were a cross growing across the surface of the dial. At 12 o’clock, the index is composed of three thin baton sub-indexes placed side by side, beneath which stands the Cartier signature. The hour and minute hands are medium-tempered and therefore black.
Around this small circular dial, Jaeger has succeeded in assembling an unprecedentedly sculptural watch.
The case is cylindrical and measures 13.5 mm in diameter. It is divided into two sections. The lower section serves as the caseback, which is secured to the upper section with two screws. The external surface of the caseback features a large, “retractable” winding crown, which protrudes slightly beyond the edge of the case band so it can be operated manually even while the watch is on the wrist.
The inside of the caseback is characterized by a series of clearly distinguishable hallmarks: first, the 0.750 gold fineness mark; alongside it, the clearly visible “owl” mark within an oval, the hallmark of small 18K gold items produced in France; next to it, two hallmarks directly refer to the manufacture of the case and movement (“EJ,” with the hourglass symbol inscribed in an oval, stands for Edmond Jaeger; “JL,” with the tree symbol inscribed in a square, stands for Jaeger-LeCoultre).
The upper part of the case occupies three-quarters of the entire body. It develops into a tall, narrow, compact cylinder and ends in a plastic crystal that matches the verticality of the case. A large “owl” hallmark is located on the side of the case at 8 o’clock.
At 12 and 6 o’clock, two pseudo-hemispheres are inserted into the case, starting a stunning sequence of elements that compose the solid 18K gold bracelet.
The bracelet is composed of an elegant alternation of globular elements of two different sizes: the larger element has a diameter of 13mm; the smaller is just under 8mm. Together, the two components interact through an interplay of convexity and concavity and are held in place by a semi-flexible loop that slides in and through them. The larger pseudo-sphere has a concave shape that allows the smaller one to unfold within it: like a bone joint, the two “links” of the bracelet interact in a structurally fluid and functional manner. These alternating and sequenced globular elements make this bracelet unique.
The bracelet ends with a repetition of three pseudo-spheres of equal size, the last of which features a hole for the bayonet-shaped clasp.
The clasp has two “wings” (with serrations for grip) that tighten as they enter the opening, releasing tension inside and thus securely closing the bracelet. This incredible technical detail is also an integral part of this 1940s masterpiece.
In those same years, Cartier had proposed jewelry designed with this idea of repeated and alternating “modularity,” but never with this complexity, and, moreover, with the integration of a watch. Jaeger played a key role in opening new horizons for Cartier, and this stunning object is the most crystalline example.
Within this jewel of extreme sculptural refinement is the in-house JLC 426/2 caliber with hours and minutes functions. It is a movement 12.4 mm in diameter and 2.90 mm high; it has 16 jewels and runs at 18,000 Vph.
