CARACTÉRISTIQUES TECHNIQUES
Extremely rare Chopard US Four Time Zones ref. 2030 for Kutchinsky, with a solid 18K yellow gold case, four manual-winding ETA 2442 movements signed Chopard 529 RZ, from 1970.
Solid 18K yellow gold case measuring 35mm x 45mm
Verre saphir original
Couronnes originales avec logo
Original logoed buckle
Manual-winding ETA 2442 movements
ANALYSE
This exceptional watch is truly unique. It is an item created for the American market through a collaboration between Chopard and Joseph Kutchinsky. But let’s take it one step at a time.
While Chopard was founded in 1860 in Sonvillier (Swiss Jura) as a manufacturer of jewelry watches and pocket watches by Louis-Ulysse Chopard (hence the acronym “L.U.C.”; the logo was registered in two variations in 1942 under the numbers 109 796 and 109 797), the Polish Kutchinsky family was also producing the finest jewelry for the court of Frederick II of Bavaria. Hirsch Kutchinsky fled Poland for England around the end of the 19th century, and opened the family’s first jewelry shop on Commercial Road in London’s East End. The business expanded with his nephew Joseph Kutchinsky, who moved the family business to Brompton Road in Knightsbridge, not far from Harrods. The jewelry Kutchinsky produced in the 1960s and 1970s was immediately acclaimed for its use of precious stones and coral set in eccentric gold and platinum forms, and fame quickly followed. The jewelry store soon began distributing watches, especially women’s watches: the creative use of stones and precious metals needed to match the morphology of the timepiece. From this perspective, the collaboration with Chopard was a natural fit. The watch brand had a legacy as a jewelry studio and producer, having been acquired in 1963 by the Shaufele family, a name well-known in Pforzheim, Germany, for the production of high-end jewelry, especially women’s bracelets. Kutchinsky became Chopard’s sole distributor in London. He produced his own watches, but relied largely on Chopard for his watchmaking.
This special collaboration gave rise to the “Dual Time” watches, signed by Chopard and often Kutchinsky. It’s unclear whether Kutchinsky designed them and commissioned Chopard to produce them, but the fact remains that most of these watches also bear Kutchinsky’s signature, often on the caseback. Various versions of the “Dual Time” were produced between the 1970s and 1980s, including dials in semiprecious stones, onyx and diamonds, mother-of-pearl, malachite, and so on. These were two watches in one: that is, they had two distinct movements associated with two distinct dials; one displaying “home time” and the other displaying “local time.” This is the production run that, while rare, is what we might call “standard.” This watch takes rarity to a whole new level. This reference 2030, along with reference 2035, is the only one with four dials set to four different time zones and powered by four different movements.
The watch is distinguished by two mirrored rectangular dials, each with two subdials of the same size. The champagne-colored surface features four black pad-printed Roman numeral hour markers. The only distinguishing feature is the distinct inscriptions “Eastern,” “Mountain,” “Central,” and “Pacific.” These inscriptions directly reference the four distinctive time zones of the United States, which were clearly displayed for immediate readability. The hands are narrow pencil-shaped and elegantly understated in black.
The case is double-sectioned, with double recesses to house the four calibers. Its profile is slightly curved to perfectly embrace the wrist. Inside this incredible 19K yellow gold masterpiece is the “L.U.C.” signature, certifying the in-house production of this incredible piece. The same acronym is also found on the four crowns: two on the right side and two on the left side.
The watch is presented on a brown alligator strap that ends with the original yellow gold-plated buckle signed “L.U.C.”
Inside are the four hand-wound movements signed Chopard 520 RZ. The structural basis of this caliber is the ETA 2442. It is only 6″ lignes (13.7mm), has 17 jewels, and runs at 21,600 A/h.
