CARACTÉRISTIQUES TECHNIQUES
18K yellow gold case measuring 36mm
Couronne originale
Cristal original
Original strap
Boucle originale
Original complete set
JLC 605 quartz crystal movement inside
ANALYSE
Gérald Genta’s watchmaking is a subject of study, extensively documented in the industry literature. Numerous critical and monographic contributions have examined his impact on watch design. However, beyond his well-known collaborations with major watchmaking brands and his consolidated biographical narratives, the full extent of his expressive autonomy is revealed through the creation of his eponymous independent brand – founded in 1969.
Genta’s entrepreneurial initiative should be interpreted as a break from industry conventions: at the time, watch designers generally operated in an ancillary position to major manufacturers, while the Genevan watchmaker explicitly advocated for full creative freedom, aimed at artistic expression free from commercial or aesthetic constraints. With the support of his wife Evelyne in managing the company, a haute horlogerie atelier was established, focused on the creation of unique pieces and strictly limited series, destined for an exclusive circle of collectors.
From a formal perspective, the solutions adopted by Genta during this period exhibit recurring distinctive characteristics. The case is conceived as a sculptural volume characterized by complex geometries and multiple facets, often inspired by architectural models. The dials evolve toward increasing three-dimensionality, enriched with intricate textures and saturated colors. The winding crown takes on a value that is no longer merely functional, but also aesthetic. Another distinctive element is the visual continuity between the case and strap or bracelet, which seems to emerge as a natural continuation from the body of the timepiece. An analysis of secondary details – buckles, accessories, and packaging – reveals a meticulous attention to the overall design of the product. Purchasing a Genta watch thus constituted a rich, multisensory experience.
The target audience was an elite clientele, identifiable as Middle Eastern sovereigns and Asian princes, a public accustomed to demanding the unusual: timepieces adorned with gems and abundant with ornamental details. In contrast to the aesthetic restraint imposed by the great Swiss fashion houses, Genta was finally able to embrace an over-the-top, visionary, and deliberately eccentric style. The outcome of this journey is authentic works of applied art, in which the discipline of watchmaking is transformed into a pure expression of formal extravagance.
Between the late 1980s and the first half of the 1990s, Genta developed a watch with four time zones, embracing an aesthetic concept familiar to him: the octagonal case we all recognize and associate with his creative genius. However, another was produced with a rarer circular case. This four-time zone reference G 3122.4 is completely new and much rarer, as it features a large, 36 mm circular case in yellow gold.
The dial has a clean white background, upon which are positioned four subdials, overlapping in pairs. Each is identical. The aesthetic pattern plays on repetition and symmetry. Within each subdial, the hours of day and night are represented with a purely artistic graphic and chromatic solution that harks back to the works of surrealists like Dalí and De Chirico. The sensation is that of floating in the prevailing circularity of the graphic elements. All hands are the same shape and color, reflecting this modular repetition approach.
The large 18K yellow gold case is divided into three sections and has a disc-like shape. A bipartite bezel with circular elements is applied above the case middle, echoing the circular patterns found on the dial. The case is secured by Genta’s signature two lugs, which are integral to this overall design concept and philosophy. The latter features a design and screw closure reminiscent of those found on Cartier’s Vendome model or those characteristic of Van Cleef & Arpels. These magnificent lugs are fitted with an original, signed leather strap, which integrates seamlessly with them, making them disappear and creating a natural connection with the case. The crocodile strap ends with a beautiful 18K yellow gold logo buckle. Still attached to it are the original vintage tag and, on a special cord, the original octagonal pin, also in 18K yellow gold, used to interact with the correctors and set the functions. A truly astonishing detail that only a genius, not only of design but also of marketing, could have achieved.
This rare watch is powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre 605 quartz movement. It is a highly engineered caliber built to perform at 32,768 hertz. It has a diameter of 26mm and a thickness of just 2.25mm, has 10 jewels, and is accurate to +/- 1 minute per year.
This rare NOS timepiece is accompanied by its original set, which has been intact since the 1990s. It includes the box, outer box, signed brown leather document holder, warranty, and papers issued by the Roman jewelry store that kept it.
