CARACTÉRISTIQUES TECHNIQUES
Universal Geneve women’s watch with a long-square case and fancy lugs in solid 18Kt yellow gold, manual-winding UG 306 movement, from 1940.
18Kt yellow gold case measuring 15.3mm x 16.5mm
Lug-to-lug measuring 28.3mm
Couronne originale
Original domed crystal
Manual-winding UG 306 movement inside
ANALYSE
Women’s watches have been given a huge role in Universal Geneve’s vast production. In this field, the Swiss brand’s creatives were able to experiment with a wide variety of ideas and solutions that men’s watches could not. This watch demonstrates this approach.
The rectangular dial has a light surface (now tending toward gray thanks to the beautiful, uniform patina) punctuated by small, conical dots marking the hours. Two large, hc Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock seem to invade the heart of the dial with their mirrored surface. The hands are shaped like narrow pencils. The entire dial appears understated yet at the same time very rigorous. Above it rises the incredible, domed, pseudo-trapezoidal crystal with beveled corners.
The fluidity of the glass edge anticipates the soft lines that flow along the lugs. Unlike the structural “rigidity” of the elongated, square case, the lugs are horn-shaped. The four corners appear to begin to move, lending vibration to the entire construction. This splendid case, which can be dated to the first half of the 1940s by its serial number, was made by Jung & Fils, a casemaker active in La Chaux-de-Fonds from 1934 to 1966.
Under the caseback is the miniaturized rectangular caliber UG 306. It is manually wound and is characterized by the straight lines of its bridges and the balance wheel assembly housed on a special bridge that curves along the entire short side.
