SPECIFICHE
18K yellow gold case measuring 36mm
Corona originale
Cristallo originale
Original strap
Fibbia originale
Original full set
Self-winding movement Frederic Piguet 71 inside
ANALISI
We know everything about the genius of Gerald Genta. Numerous articles and books have been written about his contributions to watch design. Some have imaginatively called him “the Picasso of watches,” and rightly so. Beyond Genta’s history with major fashion houses, and beyond conventional narratives, the great designer demonstrated his complete creative freedom through his independent watch brand: Gérald Genta.
Gerald Genta founded his eponymous brand in 1969, a bold move because at the time, watch designers typically worked in the shadow of major manufacturers, but he desired complete creative freedom to express his art without compromise. With his wife Evelyne at his side in the management, a haute horlogerie atelier was born, producing unique pieces and very limited editions for an exclusive clientele of collectors. Genta’s designs during this period were unmistakable: he treated the case like a sculpture with complex, multifaceted geometries, often inspired by architecture (as in the case of the 1969 Gefica, which experimented with organic forms and unusual materials like bronze); dials evolved toward greater three-dimensionality and were enriched with complex textures and vibrant colors; winding crowns took on aesthetic, not just functional, value. Another distinctive element is the seamless integration between case and strap, which seems to emerge naturally from the body of the watch as a continuation of the design. An obsessive attention to detail, which extends from the buckles to the accessories and packaging, is evident. Buying a Genta-designed watch must have been a rich, multi-sensory experience.
The target audience was an elite clientele, made up of Eastern sovereigns and Asian princes, people accustomed to demanding the unusual: timepieces laden with gems and brimming with ornamental details. Far from the aesthetic restraint imposed by the great Swiss maisons, Genta finally indulged in an over-the-top, visionary, even brazen style. The result was authentic works of applied art, where watchmaking becomes pure eccentricity.
After the collapse of quartz, a further turning point for Genta’s brand came thanks to the contribution of master watchmaker Pierre-Michel Golaye. Together, between the 1980s and 1990s, they came to dominate the scene of the most sophisticated complications, reaching heights of absolute excellence.
This perpetual calendar accurately reflects the above.
It has a stunning mother-of-pearl dial, extremely iridescent due to its flawless quality. It features a layout whose display is typical of Genta: the moon phases are displayed within a vivid blue lapis lazuli disc set in a gold ring; The days of the week are displayed on the left, while the days of the month are displayed on the subdial at 6 o’clock. The month display is at 3 o’clock, and its subdial features a leap year display composed of four apertures/positions that trace the passing of the four years. A cam on the dial side regulates the calendar so that it automatically adds February 29th every 48 months, extending the length of the month as necessary before moving on to March 1st (this system will remain autonomous until the year 2100, when it will be necessary to manually reset it according to the rules of the Gregorian calendar). Against this brilliant mother-of-pearl background—which changes color from bright white to purple, passing through pink, with each micro-tilting of the dial—the deep black pad prints emerge as if from a sea of milk. The entire composition is closed on the periphery by a railway track mark punctuated by the presence of small, understated Roman numerals at the hours. All hands have the same shape and color, harmonizing with each other.
The 18K yellow gold case is three-section and disc-shaped. A bipartite bezel with circular elements is applied above the case middle, echoing the circular patterns found on the dial. Everything is designed for an almost centrifugal view, forcing the gaze from the outside inward. The case is secured by Genta’s signature two lugs, which are integral to this overall design concept and philosophy. These lugs feature a design and screw closure reminiscent of those found on Cartier’s Vendome model or those characteristic of Van Cleef & Arpels. These magnificent lugs are fitted with an original, signed leather strap that integrates seamlessly with them, making them disappear and creating a direct connection with the case. The black crocodile strap ends with a beautiful 18K yellow gold logo buckle. Still attached to it are the original tag from the era and, on a special cord, the original octagonal pin, also in 18K yellow gold, which is used to interact with the correctors and set the various calendar functions. A truly astonishing detail that only a genius, not only of design but also of marketing, could have achieved.
Inside the case, beneath the caseback—signed both inside and out—is the Frederic Piguet 71 movement. This caliber has also been widely used as the basis for integrating various complications, including the perpetual calendar. It is also particularly suited to skeletonization.
Originally introduced as the caliber 70, it was evolved into the caliber 71 in 1985 thanks to modifications to the winding system. The caliber 71 is an automatic movement equipped with an off-center rotor, a feature that makes it immediately recognizable. At just 2.4 mm thick, it is a true ultra-thin movement. It has a diameter of 27.4 mm, is equipped with 35 jewels, and features a non-screw-regulated Glucydur balance, running at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and adjustable in four positions. Protection is provided by a double KIF shock absorber system.
This incredible NOS timepiece is accompanied by its original set, which has been intact since the 1990s. It includes the box, outer box, signed brown leather document holder, warranty, and papers issued by the Roman jewelry store that kept it.
